Spectacular spots to cool off this summer
Idyllic lakes, waterfalls and chaos on the Danube
We’re gearing up for what will likely be another long, hot dry summer here in Rheinhessen, and I’m planning on spending as much of it as possible submerged in cold water. I may be a good 450km from the coast, but the Germans take their aquatic activities very seriously, and I’m very lucky to have an excellent outdoor pool and two swimming lakes within cycling distance of where I live.
If you’re not planning to be near a beach this summer either, the next two newsletters will offer you some inland inspiration for staying cool. Today’s features suggestions for destinations and events in which water plays a starring role; in two weeks, a selection of waterside accommodations will land in your inbox, from sleek modern chalets with extraordinary river views to wicker beds on the beach.
Paid subscribers can expect a second newsletter this month as I play catch up on the ones I’ve missed. (I was hoping to squeeze both in before July, but I’m going to have to split them between this month and next instead.) In it, I’ll be sharing bits and pieces from a recent five-day trip to Bavaria, including some brewery and restaurant recommendations as well as notes from a delightful chair lift/cable car ride and a visit to an artist who paints with cow dung.
Destination picks: swimming and boating and hiking galore
From its beautiful white beaches in the north to its glistening mountain lakes in the south, with an abundance of lake districts, reservoirs, rivers and waterfalls in between, Germany offers some genuinely spectacular spots to hop into your bathing suit (or not) and go for a swim. There’s plenty of opportunity for watersports too, whether you’re into leisurely boat rides and stand-up padding or prefer the thrills of kite-surfing and sailing. The following three destinations offer a variety of ways to experience Germany’s watery wonders, but they all have one thing in common: dramatic backdrops the likes of which you won’t find anywhere else.
For hikers: the Eifel Trail
For those who’d rather look at water than get into it, the 313km Eifel Trail, which connects the historic cities of Aachen and Trier, takes in some impressive natural sights along the way. (Plenty of non water-related ones too, from castles, mills and medieval towns to the Genoveva Cave.) Wending its way through seemingly endless forests, Europe’s largest highland moor and the Eifel National Park, the trail’s aquatic highlights include the Urft reservoir, Dreimühlen waterfall, a Roman aqueduct and the Dauner Maare, three of the region’s 12 volcanic lakes, which are known, somewhat creepily, as “the eyes of the Eifel”. If you do fancy a dip in some eerily still dark water, swimming is permitted at two of these three lakes - just try not to think about the fact that the smallest, Gemündener Maar, is around 38m deep.
Further information at eifelsteig.de
For canoeists: the River Lahn
If canoeing’s more your thing, make a beeline for the River Lahn, a 245km-long tributary of the Rhine that’s well known for both its popularity with canoeists and kayakers and the gentle, unspoilt countryside through which it courses. As it winds its way through quaint half-timber villages and historic cities including Marburg and Wetzlar, it passes sights such as the seven-towered Limburg Cathedral and 13th century Braunfels Castle and offers the opportunity to float through Weilburg Shipping Tunnel, the oldest and longest shipping tunnel still navigable in Germany today.
There are canoe rental businesses aplenty in the region. Well-established tour operator Lahntours operates over an 160km stretch of the river: their canoeing and kayaking offers include individual rental by the hour and longer group tours that incorporate overnight stays at one of their well-equipped campsites.
Further information at lahntours.de
For swimmers: Lake Freiberg
Close to Germany’s border with Austria, surrounded by thick beech and fir forests, shimmering green Lake Freiberg in the Allgäu Alps is one of Bavaria’s warmest. Its water level fluctuates, meaning the shore is not always easily accessible, but you can get into the water at the natural swimming pool by the restaurant, which also has a sunbathing area and a kiosk for ice creams, snacks and drinks. The natural pool has an enclosed area for children (with an entrance fee); the lake itself has a diving tower and raft, and rowing and pedalos can be rented at the jetty. If you don’t fancy getting wet, there’s a hiking trail that’ll take you all the way around the lake’s perimeter, and it’s even possible to take the lift up the nearby Heini Klopfer Ski Jump - at 70m, Germany’s highest - to admire magnificent views of the lake from above.
Access to the lake is closed to public traffic. It can also be reached via number of hiking and mountain bike trails, but the nearest car park is a 25-minute walk away. Further information at freiburgsee.com
Event picks: fireworks and floating processions
Fireworks over the Rhine
Pyrotechnics and light displays don’t get much more spectacular than the Middle Rhine Valley’s annual Rhine in Flames. On five nights between May and September, an illuminated convoy of boats travels along various sections of the river against a backdrop of steeply sloping vineyards and floodlight hilltop castles. Buy a boat ticket to experience the spectacle from the water or enjoy the spectacle from land, where a variety of accompanying festivities take place before each event concludes with a lavish display of fireworks.
Remaining dates for this year: Bingen/Rüdesheim July 1; Spay-Koblenz August 12; Oberwesel September 9; St. Goar/St. Goarshausen September 16. Further information at rhein-in-flammen.com
Kiele Woche (Kiel Regatta)
Europe’s largest sailing event also happens to be Germany’s second largest public festival after Oktoberfest, attracting some three million visitors from Germany and beyond during the course of the 10-day event. Athletes from all over the world come to take part in a variety of sailing competitions; other highlights include the tall ships parade, which features some 100 old ships and yachts, and the fireworks display that marks the end of the regatta. On land, there’s a programme of cultural events including concerts, theatre and cabaret performances and kids’ activities, and of course there’s also plenty of good food and drink.
June 17-25. Further information at kieler-woche.de
Chaos on the Danube
If you prefer your festivities a little more chaotic, head to Ulm on the penultimate Monday in July for the city’s annual celebration of its 1397 constitution. A traditional oath-swearing ceremony in the morning is followed by a lively river procession later in the afternoon. A whole host of vessels make their way down the Danube, from the elaborately-decorated, topically-themed boats of the city’s various clubs and societies to precarious floating contraptions constructed by locals - and lots of revellers bobbing about on rafts and inflatables in between. Music is provided by a series of bands, also on boats, vying to win a public vote. Celebrations continue back on land late into the night.
July 24, Ulm. Further information at tourismus.ulm.de
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